In the city of Srinagar, nestled in the snowy Himalayas of Indian-administered Kashmir, the day begins long before the morning call to prayer echoes through the streets. Local bakers, known as kandurs, fire up their traditional tandoor ovens, continuing a centuries-old practice that remains a vital part of Kashmiri culture.
This disputed region, rich in natural beauty with its ice-blue lakes, snowy glaciers, and towering mountains, has a legacy shaped by Buddhist pilgrims, Islamic rulers, and Central Asian Silk Road traders. Despite decades of conflict, the region’s artisans, particularly its bakers, continue to preserve one of the most cherished aspects of Kashmiri life: its bread culture.
While rice may be the staple food in many Kashmiri households, bread, prepared in the region’s kandarwans (bakeries), is what fuels the community. The kandurs bake around ten different varieties of bread daily, each with a specific time and ritual for consumption. The diversity and cultural importance of these breads have made the region’s baking traditions an integral part of its social fabric.
Mehvish Altaf Rather, a Kashmir-based documentary filmmaker, sought to highlight this underappreciated aspect of Kashmiri life with her 2019 film Kandurwan: Baking History. In a region often defined by conflict, Rather aimed to shift the narrative toward the everyday lives of Kashmiris, focusing on food as a central element of identity and culture.
The kandur, or bakery, is not just a place to buy bread—it is a community hub where the art of baking is passed down through generations. The tandoor ovens used by the kandurs are rooted in ancient traditions that trace back to the Persian word “tanur,” meaning oven. These ovens are used to bake a variety of breads, often cooked over flames or within clay ovens, a practice that connects Kashmir to the larger culinary traditions of Central Asia.
Kashmir’s rich bread culture, shaped by both historical influences and local craftsmanship, could one day earn recognition as a UNESCO intangible heritage, placing it alongside other renowned traditions like France’s boulangerie. Yet, amidst the region’s political turmoil and conflict, this culinary legacy often remains overshadowed, despite its significant role in the daily lives of the people
Source: Swifteradio.com
